by Steven Doyle
What do you get when you meld supple ramen noodles, charred pork belly, a marinated soft boiled egg with a smattering of minced pork, scallions, sexy fish cakes, all swimming in an 8-hour pork broth served from a VW microbus? You have Kaedama hailing from El Paso, Texas, land of street taco.
This is a truck (or bus) worth hunting down, so you will want to follow Kaedama on Facebook. Then you will have access to an obviously wonderful Tonkotsu, but also a ream of delicious choices from the menu such as the El Ramon, an El Paso stylized chile Colorado-style broth, the usual suspects of vegetation and a choice of tofu or pork belly (we recommend both, just because).
Or take-away a sushi burrito loaded with cucumber, cream cheese, carrot, avocado, spicy mayo, an eel sauce they make themselves, then a choice of tofu or surimi. We choose tofu, just because of a childhood aversion to surimi. Or BYOC (bring your own crab). But seriously, the tofu has a great texture and takes on the flavors of the sauces so nicely.
If you are in the mood for a soup/ sandwich combo dinner thing, go for the banh mi along with your ramen or a perfect taste treat. Packed with an Asian slaw, jalapenos, cucumbers, hoisin and a spicy mayo along with a choice of their three meats – the tofu, pork belly or surimi. Purists will want to spank a pork belly in their banh mi.
The truck is laid back, and generally sports a line that will keep you waiting just a bit. But like anything delicious, it will be time spent well.